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thanks bro,it helped me a lot

Do you still have it.?

You riding gold my friend

Whay size of heat shrink did you use?

Just do it the normal way fellas

I’ll be damned if your voice doesn’t remind me of Bob Ross the painter! It’s just as cool and calm! You should narrate stories for people to fall asleep to!

i have this issue on my trunk key hole, but the driver side door is fine, anyone able to help? 😂 (key fob works fine, it’s just when you manually put the key in, it doesn’t lock or unlock)

You need a new battery 🔋

Deveria usar um disco flap

A parte de cima tu bateu demais deveria de ter chegado entortado para baixo sem precisar bater demais.

0:24 Ultimate in adorable-kiddie-innocence joy here --- your little one gets a "two-for-one special" in dat initially she loves da delightful rattly sound of da marble inside da spray-can, and then she also knows dat she will soon get to see what said marble looks like after Daddy gets da can open for her. :D

Merci depuis Paris ❤

I have discovered Sushi and I can't afford it. So I am learning to make my own and it is MUCH cheaper. Getting this thing! Lol! My life is getting ready to be filled with weekly or even daily sushi!

Just a tip bro. Next time don’t take out the spark plug. Let the engine pressurize for those 40-60 minutes THEN pull out the spark plugs. Let that sealer sit over night.

😂

By the way a plumber on RUclips uses both the Telfon tape and the pipe sealant. I've done it and it works well for me.

uh oh the apprentices got their hands on a recording device

Obviously you are proficient at sweating the pipes. I'm just curious why with your knowledge you used a sharkbite valve instead of a solder valve?

2줄싸고 퇴근? 배우는게 곧 힘이다(한국에서)

Beautiful rescue. Ty for your kindness. 💜

Thanks!

BEAUTIFUL ❤

Looks like a young raven

the bird wasn't shocked, it was frozen. That bird has a pretty high body T and being in water dropped it significantly. So the bird couldn't move and was shaking until heating up.

Thank you for help❤😂

July 2024 badly need it😮

best is by hand and rolling mat. this has too many limitations

I think the hair dryer method is the best. Thanks for sharing!

Don't feel bad. Made the same mistake. I, on the other hand, have a reservoir. There is no cap on the radiator. So, like you, all the antifreeze filled the reservoir due to good pressure. Unfortunately, now I have to bleed it all again and get that antifreeze out of the reservoir. When this happened, I took a test drive regardless. Everything worked as it should except for when I was sitting for about 5 minutes while running. She ran really hot. Only while moving, she ran smoothly. Being that the water pump is moving much faster. I do know that I lost a lot of antifreeze while opening up the reservoir. I'm going to let it cool down and take it from there. Your video did, however, let me know, Using this product, if it worked, will build up that pressure. I've been going through this for some time with my car. And i've never seen that much pressure built up before using this product.

Aún existen verdaderos seres humanos ❤️!

This stuff can work, depending on where the head gasket has failed. BUT If it's failed between a combustion chamber and the coolant jacket, over- pressurising the cooling system, then the Manufacturers STRONGLY recommend you don't use blue devil, as there is a likely chance of the product being drawn into the cylinder, instantly setting hard like ceramic, and destroying the engine! Honestly, a head gasket replacement on most cars is not a big job, and quite fun to do.

I was fishing and I saw a crow get tangle up in fishing line in a tree. I climbed the tree and shimmied down a branch and cut it free. I went back the next day hoping to see the crow and I did. It told its mother and the whole murder came over and scolded me for a good 20 minutes. I tried to explain that spent fishing line is a pet peeve of mine and I pick it up whenever I come across it. But they didn’t believe me. When they were done they flew away and I saw my friend look back before taking off.

Thank you,he was tired of swimming

8:40 Their parents aren't gonna be too happy about all of that chalk-dust on the seats of their slacks! (Well, okay --- those ARE their play-clothes, but they're still not supposed to get THAT dusty! :P)

Ultimate in joyful kiddie-innocence fun! :D :D :D

4:50 "IMPACT WRENCH" :D

3:25 Ummmmmm... I think she meant that the rug should get ripped out first --- i.e, BEFORE before you vacuumed the interior, Rob, since removing the carpet would just loosen a lot more debris onto the nice freshly-vacuumed floor, and then that additional mess would have to be tediously cleaned up a second time, rather than just vacuuming everything in one go. Were you being a trifle stubborn and dictatorial here...??

I've always loved this particular '60's-and-'70's-era "rural dairy-farmer and backwoods hillbilly" design/model of Jeep. :D

Aren't you supposed to add adhesive to the plug before you insert it?

5:35 I thought that you were supposed to just forcibly pull the rasp-reamer straight out, not unscrew it...? I was under the impression that pulling out the rasp removes loosened material from inside the hole to make it smoother?

So Avi got the little sister she wanted? :)

Might wanna get some new muffler-bearings while you're at it, and check to see if your dome-light needs to be greased. :P

Another magnet fisherman, "The Fisher", uses a grappling hook for the final lifting of really heavy stuff that he thinks might fall off the magnet. Since water is heavier than air, it buoys up the magnetically-attracted object better than air, and so the object gets effectively a lot heavier when you start to pull it out of the water.

So did Avi get the sister she wanted?

I trust that you ***tested the wiring*** prior to taping them all back together, didn't you??? :P

8:43 It's a good idea to apply extra flux to the joint before soldering it, even if the wires are already tinned. The joint will go together a lot easier and better, which is especially good in cases like this, when the wires are kind of "wiggly and wobbly" while they're being joined. Here again, though, it would be good to make hooks in the wire-ends and crimp the hooks together, or if possible, not even cut the wires apart in the first place. :D

8:20 if you just make small hooks in the ends of the tinned wires and then crimp the hooks together, the wires will likely stay together long enough for the solder to join them. (Here's yet another advantage to using the solder-filling method --- rather than doing the "standard" cut-and-splice --- that I described in my previous comment, since the wires will not be in two separate pieces to begin with, and so they will not need to be initially held together till they're permanently re-joined with solder.)

7:34 You'll want to make sure to always slide the heat-shrink tubing well down the length of the wire to avoid the heated portion while soldering the wires together (also, wait for the heated wires to cool down again before sliding the tubing back up towards the newly-soldered joint, so that the still-very-warm wires don't pre-shrink the tubing before you can get it onto the soldered joint); otherwise, the tubing will shrink prematurely where the heat-conducting-copper-cored wire is touching it, and then the shrunken-smaller tubing will be harder to slide back onto your soldered joint afterwards. :D

5:00 You don't actually have to cut frayed-but-still-connected wires prior to fixing them, especially if they're fairly light-gauge, as they are here --- what you can do instead is to first use a fairly-high-wattage soldering iron/gun to melt off (cutting/scraping it off with a knife would risk damaging the conductor-strands further; merely melting away the insulation is a much "gentler" way of removing it) about an inch of the insulation from either side of the frayed area, then clean and brighten all the strands and gently smoothe/twist them back into a compact bundle again, and with all of the broken strands flattened back down and nested back in where they belong. You then spread flux generously onto the damaged area of the wire, then fill it all in with solder to "catch" all of the broken wire-strand ends and make a nice robust solid joint there to restore the wire's integrity and current-carrying capacity. (Bonus perk --- filling in the still-intact wires with solder instead of cutting-and-splicing them also avoids the risk of mixing up similar-colored wires, since you never separated the wires in the first place. Plus, of course, it also avoids having to make the wires any shorter, which is especially wise if there isn't much extra wire-length to begin with, as is the case here.) I have done this many times with damaged wiring like this, and it's always worked --- I've never had a joint malfunction or overheat after being refurbished this way. :D

You could also feed 12 volts into the car's cigarette-lighter socket using a power-plug and wires; the wiring for the lighter socket would be much smaller-gauge than jumper cables, though, and so this method would only work if you needed maybe ten amps or less to activate the hatch-release.